Linda reflects on her visit to the Pine Ridge Reservation
Date: Oct '05
On Thursday, October 20th Ellen and I boarded separate planes and headed to Pine Ridge, South Dakota. This is the first time Ellen and I would meet face-to-face. Fred, OST Healthy Start coordinator, picked us up at the airport. Imagine boarding a plane, not knowing the person you're meeting yet recognize them instantly.
At approximately 5:15pm we exit the airport into a grey covered sky. There is rain off in the distant south. We have approximately a 2 hour drive ahead of us. It is damp, and light rain begins to fall about 15 minutes into our journey to Pine Ridge. We travel on a paved road for quit some time passing widely spread out small homes. The Black Hills are to the west as we travel south toward our destination. The sun is beginning to set behind the cloudy skies, but not before it peeks out and a rainbow forms on the east behind the hilly terrain.
As we enter Pine Ridge Reservation, there is just enough daylight left to snap a photograph of the OST Healthy Start sign promoting breastfeeding. Fred thought that was such an appropriate place to put the sign, just over the bridge at the beginning of the reservation.
The pavement ends and we are traveling on a gravel road for approximately 10 miles. The efforts are ongoing to complete the stretch of pavement that remains unpaved. Fred is talking the entire journey ... telling us about his family history, the education system, government, his achievements and goals in life, and OST Healthy Start. Finally, the pavement begins again and we no longer have to strain to hear Fred speak. It is too dark to see anything. There aren't any streetlights other than those outside each home.
We arrive at the home of Fred and his family about 2 hours later. We are warmfully greeted by Rupert (a chow mix canine) and several other of their outdoor dogs. Fred's wife Gail is anxiously waiting for us inside along with their four children. Lightening, the family cat, is very curious and investigates -- just making sure he approves, I guess. The children are very shy right now. We all sit down and have sandwiches and casual chit-chat as get to know one another. Ellen and I feel comfortable instantly.
It's Thursday evening so that means school the next day. All the children go to be at 9pm, even the teenagers, and without any arguments. Ellen and I are tired and retire by 10:00pm. I didn't sleep very well that night. I kept hearing something by the door only to find out in the morning it was Rupert protecting his family. He sleeps right by the door every night and he's so big he bangs the door every time he lays down. Ellen slept great!!
Friday morning started with the typical craziness of the morning rush off to school. The rain has stopped, but the skies are still cloudy and the air is damp and bitter. Fred takes us around the Pine Ridge district. We visit the Pine Ridge Hospital which is already outdated as it's just not large enough to serve 32,000 people because it is the only hospital on the reservation. The hospital does not offer a trauma center or behavioral medicine. Patients requiring such treatment must be transported 2 hours away to Rapid City. The original Pine Ridge Hospital is now used for offices. The homes across the way from the hospital are still small, but nice --- that's because they are the homes for the doctors who work at the hospital. Not far from the hospital are 2 small buildings for dialysis treatment, a veterans center, and The Casey Family Facility for foster care. We drive through the district of Pine Ridge witnessing the reality of life on the reservation.
It's nearly 11am and time to head to the OST Healthy Start office in the Wounded Knee district to meet some clients and enjoy the special honorary lunch they have prepared for Ellen and I. The sun has finally decided to make an appearance but the air is still chilly. In route to the office, we pass the SuAnne Big Crow Boys and Girls Center. Fred is driving along, but takes a quick turn to pass the KILI radio center. We didn't stay long as time was running short. We drove through the area in which the Siege of Wounded Knee took place in 1973. Fred wants to make one more stop before we get to the office ... the Wounded Knee Memorial. Fred brought us to the memorial site and patiently pointed out where the massacre of 1890 took place. Each year the Big Foot Ride is concluded at the Wounded Knee Memorial with a prayer service ... the feeling at the site is indescribable.
We arrive at the OST Healthy Start office which is located in the blue community center building. We enter the office and smell the delicious aroma of fry bread and buffalo vegetable soup. Two women are dripping with sweat, frying the fry bread to accompany the soup. Fred explains that this is a tradional meal served when honoring someone ... Ellen and I were their guests of honor. Guests were stopping in here and there to enjoy the celebratory lunch with us. We met clients of the OST Healthy Start program ... some clients even stopped in to pick up some necessities. We took notice of the short supply of several items, ie; pedialyte, diapers, infant tylenol, infant motrin, infant clothes and maternity clothes. Following the lunch, we had the opportunity to sit and talk with several of the community members. There is so much that is needed, but promises from outside sources are never met. After lunch we headed back home, an hours drive away.
It's approximately 4pm as we pull into the yard. Fred's son has a friend over and they are enjoying the crisp, sunshined air before dinner. Fred, Ellen and I decide to take a walk around the local track for some exercise as we've been sitting all day. The track is not your typical exercise track, it's a dirt track -- but it felt great to be outdoors breathing the fresh, crisp, clean air of South Dakota. Two laps were enough for me, but Fred and Ellen decided to continue on for one more lap. As I waited for them in the car, I just sat there ... absorbing the beautiful clear sky, the amazing view, and just wondering how I could possibly still be in the same country.
Gail prepared a delicious dinner of oven fried chicken, mashed potatoes with homemade gravy, and green beans. Following dinner we (Gail, Fred, Ellen, and I) decided to put our thoughts together about the fundraising event. We talked for hours about OST Healthy Start and what we could do for a successful event. We are all very excited about the work we have ahead of us, not to mention the event itself. We retire early so we can get an early start for our long day on the road touring more of the reservation that we haven't seen yet.
It's 6:30am and I'm up ... I shouldn't be up this early. I just couldn't sleep any longer. I've got too many thoughts running through my head, and it has everything to do with our discussions from the night before. I decide to get ready before the mad rush for the bathroom (there's only one bathroom for 8 people). Ellen gets up when I'm all ready, then the mad rush to get into the bathroom begins. Gail makes eggs, sausage, fresh fried potatoes, and toast for breakfast. The kids are doing what I remember doing when I was a kid ... watching Saturday morning cartoons. It's about 11:00am and we head out for out long day of sitting to tour more areas of the reservation. We pass through the Porcupine district then the Lakota College. There is construction underway across the street where they are building a new hotel. The next community we pass through is Kyle which is the second largest community on the reservation. Our journey continues to a place called Potato Creek ... Fred turned the car around and the view was absolutely breathtaking. You could feel God around you. Ellen and I took photos as we will post them as soon as we can, but I'm sure photos will not do this view justice. The remainder of our journey was spent driving, and driving. I found it amazing how you could drive for miles and not see any houses at all, just open space and an occasional cluster of cows or horses. At one point during our drive, Fred was talking and Ellen and I were listening so intently and all of a sudden out of the corner of my eye I see something coming very fast from the side of the ride right in front of the car. Man alive did I jump ... it was just a silly leaf, but it startled me. Fred thought that was hysterical and officially named me "Scared of Leaves".
We're heading back toward the Pine Ridge district as the brisk breeze tosses tumbleweeds across the open highway. Imagine no traffic jams ... or even a passing car for that matter. And what's this up ahead, it's a traffic light ... and a gas station, it's time to stretch our legs and ... well, head to the ladies room. OK, back on the road again. Fred pulls up to the Pow Wow grounds where they hold their "Walk For Health" event twice a year. We pull in and there are other vehicles parked by a tree ... a group of people hanging around and what do we see, oh my goodness -- they are butchering something hanging in a tree. Fred said it was either a buffalo or a cow. Ellen was very curious, but no, not me. Fred wants to take us to one more place ... a cemetery. Fred was hoping the church was still open so he could show us the display inside, but they were closed ... such a bummer. We get back into the car and drive up this incredibly bumpy, steep hill. The cemetery is at the top of the hill so the wind is quite brisk up there. The cemetery is about 50 feet by 100 feet, if that. Fred's grandmother is buried there as well as Chief Red Cloud. We don't stay long as the wind is just too much. Time to head home and get ready for dinner.
Fred's son and daughter are playing tag outside as we pull into the yard. The air is very clear and crisp. Gail is tending to the laundry hanging on the line. The older girls are visiting with friends. The house is quiet. Gail comes in and starts dinner. Tonight she's planned steak, rice, and mixed vegetables. Fred cooks the steaks on the grill while Gail is getting the rice and veggies ready. Of course dinner is delicious, then there's donuts for dessert. Ellen and I were stuffed. Oh, I forgot to mention ... while we were out on the road, the three of us were talking about how we are all connected and Fred asked if we have ever seen the movie "The Five People You Meet In Heaven" ... so we watched the movie. Ellen and I cried ... we've both read the book but have never seen the movie. Saturday night is "movie night" at Fred's house, so Ellen and I got to pick the movie for the evening ... and the other one didn't count as our choice. We picked "Kingdom of Heaven". No commentary on the movie now, this is about the trip -- but I will tell you that Fred loved the movie.
The movie is over and Fred gets up and retrieves 2 chairs and puts them in the center of the living room and tells us to sit in the chairs. Ellen and I are both wondering what on earth is going on ... uh oh, we thought. Fred sits down on the couch and starts talking about what our visit has meant to them. I'm not so sure how detailed this will get ... this time was very emotional for Ellen and I. Fred was performing a blessing ceremony for us ... he said it in English, then he said it in Lakota. I can't speak for Ellen, but the emotions running through me during this time were unbelievable. He prayed for us, for our families, and for our departed loved ones. The blessing involved the lighting of some type of material and as this material is burning, the prayer is said. Then he takes his feather which he uses during a "swett" ceremony and clears our paths to get rid of the bad of the past and clear the way for the good of the future. The ceremony concluded with a piece of bread made of ground corn and a couple of other things which I can't remember right now, and a sip of choke cherry juice (I hope I'm spelling that correctly). When the ceremony was over, Fred asked us how we felt ... Ellen and I were without words -- we were still wiping the tears, but just couldn't come up with words to describe how we felt.
Following the ceremony, we go over the past 2 days ... commenting on how just one more day would be wonderful. The kids really want to watch one more movie, but it really is getting late. No one moves. We hang out a while longer discussing the one daughter's experience with the Big Foot Ride, movies, actors, music ... really just having fun with each other. No one wants our time together to come to an end. Finally, Fred gets up and tells us all we must get some rest. We have to be out by 9am to get Ellen to the airport on time for her flight.
OK, here I am again -- it's 6:30am and I'm wide awake. I hit the shower early so everyone else has an opportunity to get into the bathroom. This is a sad morning. Ellen and I are really packing everything back up and we're going home. Everyone is rushing around trying to get ready ... the bathroom is never vacant. It's almost 8am and I'm still sitting with a towel on my hair, just waiting for the bathroom to be empty long enough to dry my hair. I sneak in quick before one of the older girls gets in. Gail tells the girls to pack some snacks for the ride to the airport. The whole family loaded themselves into the car to bring Ellen and I to the airport.
So here we are just 3 short days later on our way home again. Fred and Gail take us all out for a buffet breakfast/lunch before we head to the airport. Time is just going too fast. I remember wanting to push a button to stop the time. Time marches on, and so do we. Ellen has to be at the airport in about 30 minutes so we finish our meals and get going. Ellen checks in and there's just enough time to stop in at the gift shop. And darn, the time still hasn't stopped. Ellen's flight is called for boarding. Goodbye's are so sad.
My flight was a couple hours later than Ellen's so Fred decided to take me and the family to The Journey Museum not far from the airport. I could have spent all day in there, but once again time has slipped away and we must be on our way back to the airport. I arrive in plenty of time. I miss my family terribly, but I just can't say goodbye to my new family additions. Gail asked me if I was going to cry ....
BTW, Fred changed my name ... he was just joking with the "Scared of Leaves" although it really didn't bother me. My name is "Luta" -- it means "red".
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This experience has been one of the most positive events in my life. There is without a doubt, so much needed on the reservation ... transportation, support groups, employment opportunities, recreational facilities, sidewalks, laundromats, the list goes on and on. Maybe one day it won't have to be this way.